Portugal
Faro airport is undergoing a significant refurbishment at the moment, so the next time you see it you will be either enormously impressed with the new look and the facilities… or nostalgic for the old.
Because there aren’t many golfers who travel who haven’t seen the arrivals hall at Faro, and it is an image in their head that we always think about with fondness. The sentimental may mourn the ‘new’ Faro, but Portuguese golf is not about to stand still. It might be one of the giants of golf travel, but with more pretenders to its throne than ever before, this especially welcoming Iberian country is quite correctly determined to keep getting even better.
Portugal, clearly, has one of the best golf products in the world: the weather, the infrastructure for holidaymakers, the value for money, the varied geography and the courses – it lacks for nothing. The three main areas of The Algarve, Lisbon and Porto have their own distinct allure too.
Porto: An alluring secret
It is the least well known of the three but keep it at the forefront of your mind when you are pondering your golf breaks for 2016 and beyond. Few areas in Europe have such charisma and pedigree, with much of the excitement surrounding two venues: Vidago Palace and Estella. The former oozes charisma, as befits a hotel of over 100 years old. But it also offers modern-day facilities and service thanks to a 2010 makeover that reaffirmed it as one of Europe’s finest hotels. An hour from Porto and 15 minutes from Chaves, it opened in 1910 and despite the refurb, preserves its architectural heritage within 70 rooms, six restaurants and bars. Mackenzie Ross laid out the original ninehole course in 1936 and it has been extended sympathetically by the Cameron and Powell firm. Expect elevated greens and tees – buttressed by retaining walls of all tees, built with local stone – strategic bunkering and subtle greens. The last three are played at the top of the Centennial Park, with breathtaking view of hills and villages. You’ll want to combine a golf break here with an excursion in the Douro region (cruises and visits to estates with lunch/wine tastings) while the hotel’s wine cellar is also ideal for sampling local wines. The new-look Thermal Spa is built on 100 hectares of perfumed cedars, pines and holly, and has an ultra-modern structure. Estella is the perfect compliment to Vidago, a raw seaside course of wind, salty air and tee shots bouncing along firm, sunparched turf. With increased investment and profile, many good judges think this could be one of the jewels of Europe – but perhaps it ought to remain the charming secret it is, and let the prescient enjoy it in peace.
Lisbon: Capital & coastal gains
Portugal’s capital is one of the continent’s under-appreciated areas, with a wealth of contrasting courses complemented by one of Europe’s most charismatic cities. There are three areas, in different landscapes, to Lisbon’s golf offering: Estoril, to the west of the city; the Blue Coast to the south; and the Silver Coast further north. The Estoril area is the best known and most heavily populated with courses. The Estoril club itself is one of the most famous names in Portuguese golf, having been founded in the 1930s. It has been usurped, though, by two Top 100 giants – the seaside thrills of Oitavos Dunes and the breathless parkland of Penha Longa’s Atlantico. The latter is a Robert Trent Jones Snr design, as is Quinta da Marinha, a super resort course with terrific Atlantic views. Belas and Beloura complete the golf picture but the real bonus of a golf break here is in the delightful towns of Estoril and especially Cascais. These traditional seaside retreats are havens for superb restaurants, cosy bars and ice cream parlours with every sort of flavour. The Blue Coast’s star attraction is Troia, and if Lisbon is one of Europe’s underrated areas then Troia is one of its most underappreciated courses. It is certainly an exacting experience, but this Trent Jones Snr track among dunes and alongside the beach is sensationally good. You can get there – it sits on a peninsula – either by a roundabout road route or via the ferry from Setubal (like nearby Sesimbra, a lovely place for a lunch of fresh fish). Troia has made significant progress up the rankings of our Continental Top 100 and even though it is now in the healthy position of 19, those of us who have played there will likely agree it could easily rise higher still. It also has plenty more to offer: a marina, hotels, an Events Centre, restaurants, a Casino, tourist apartments, beach houses and villas. The rest of the Blue Coast offering sits within the Orizonte group, which provides one of the best-pound-for pound golf breaks in Europe. The courses are of a high quality yet are exceptionally well priced. Several are in our Top 200 in Europe, namely Aroeira No.1– a Woburn-esque game among tall pines – the stylish parkland of Quinta do Peru and the mini Valderrama of Ribagolfe No.1. There are excellent second courses at both Aroeira and Ribagolfe, as well as a Donald Steel design at Santo Estevão.
Finally, to the Silver Coast, which is further up the Atlantic coastline, close to the medieval town of Obidos. There is a triangle of courses here that allow for either a relatively golf-light week or an action-packed long weekend. The traditional highlight is Praia D’El Rey, which has genuine links holes mixed with some others among pines. The sandy turf, the pot bunkers and the salty air combine for one of the continent’s most distinguished experiences – while a Marriott hotel is an excellent base. The area has been enhanced significantly by the opening of Royal Óbidos in 2012. This new course by the late Seve Ballesteros is every inch the modern championship venue, a stringent test of every aspect of the game and manicured to high levels. Its rolling landscape has been used cleverly to create a feeling of exclusion and variety that characterise the experience. A chic hotel is now open too. Bom Successo is the ‘third’ course of the area but this Steel design is a perfectly decent alternative to the exciting neighbours.
The Algarve: Superstars & gems
Certainly, it is worth pointing out that the Algarve can offer any kind of golf break you want; it is famed for its superstar names that come with a high price tag – and if trophy courses are your thing, look no further than the Vilamoura area – but it can also cater for those seeking something more sedate and less expensive. The East is especially good at that, combining high-octane Monte Rei (Portugal’s No.1) with the delights of Quinta da Ria and Cima, as well as Quinta do Vale, et al. In the West, we are huge fans of the redesigned Palmares which, taken together with the original Algarve course Penina and great value Boavista, makes for a super trip. In the central area, the big names appear: Quinta do Lago’s trio plus San Lorenzo and Vale do Lobo’s duo. Don’t be intimidated by these courses or these resorts. The names might be famous but the courses are playable and the resorts welcoming, with great breaks currently on offer at Dona Filipa and San Lorenzo. Just one of the reasons the Algarve is more popular than ever with travelling golfers.
Travel essentials
THE CLIMATE: If Lisbon loses anything in comparison with the Algarve it is actually on weather as opposed to courses. The Algarve’s location further south extends its better weather by a good couple of months.
WHEN TO GO: If you want to be in the pool as well as on the course in Porto and Lisbon, stick to June to August inclusive. The Algarve can be visited May to September for swimming and sunbathing. Equally though, if sunbathing isn’t essential, Portugal is open for golf all year round as it is never chilly.
GETTING THERE: Extremely easy – it isn’t just Faro that is served so well by UK airports, because Lisbon is similarly well serviced. The roads are perfectly pleasant to drive a hire car on once there.
CURRENCY: Euros
TIME: GMT +1
Western Algarve
Led by the Algarve’s first course and including a refreshed classic, this area is bristling with appeal.
The West of the Algarve is now one of the strongest in Europe and does not lack for fireworks in comparison to even the starstudded centre.
One of the main reasons for its elevation in recent years has been the super renovation of Onyria Palmares by Robert Trent Jones Jnr. The feted American has reworked this Algarve favourite – both with ex pats and tourists – so effectively that it features in the top 30 of Golf World’s Continental Top 100 list. There are actually three loops, all offering similar quality but a different feel. Many will remember the Praia loop that circles down to the shore most fondly but it genuinely is complemented very effectively by the higher heathland phases.
To the west of Onyria Palmares on the other side of the well-equipped town of Lagos is Boavista. It is situated between Lagos and Luz, with the latter just a five minute drive along a back road from Boavista resort – allowing you to enjoy a memorable evening out in a beguiling little town with minimal hassle. Luz sums up everything that is good about Portuguese holidays, while Boavista proves the Algarve can be exceptionally good value for money.
Moving eastward again, past Palmares, brings us to Penina. It is much more than ‘where it all began’ as it remains a classic test among mature woodland. The resort oozes class, and is the sort of place you visit for the day and make a note to visit for a longer period next year. Oceânico Faldo offers a different proposition, an exacting championship test full of elevation changes and bold design features. This high-calibre Continental Top 100 course by the legendary six-time Major champion has a stable mate in the American-style Oceânico O’Connor. Designed by the late Christy Jnr, it weaves through valleys with lakes and bunkers.
There is still yet much more to enjoy in the west and while the likes of Pestana Alto – between Alvor and Praia da Rocha, and another Cotton design – and Pestana Gramacho by former Open champion Nick Price and Ron Fream, might lack the prestige of those aforementioned, you will categorically not be disappointed here. The same is true of Fream’s Seniors Tour host Vale da Pinta, which is characterised by almond, carob and olive trees – some of which are reputed to be hundreds of years old. Water-dominated Pestana Silves is another example of the west’s quality in depth – as is Espiche, routed among lakes, streams and indigenous plants.
Alamos and Morgado are located north of Portimão. The former is characterised by raised greens and proper bunkering while the latter has wide, sweeping fairways and although a full-size course is an ideal friendly place to play if you are beginning the game.
Salgados near Albufeira was laid out within a protected, Natural Wildlife Reserve by Pedro Vasconcelos and enjoys a terrific setting.
Central Algarve
This star-studded section of the Algarve is arguably the most glamourous golfing area on the continent.
Vilamoura, Quinta do Lago, Vale do Lobo, San Lorenzo, Pine Cliffs; five of the most seductive names in Continental European golf. There is not a golfer in Britain who wouldn’t salivate at the prospect of playing merely one round among the array of courses that fall within these famed resorts. This is golf of the highest calibre, with history, tradition and prestige to go toe to toe with most other destinations in Europe.
In addition to the courses, the Vilamoura area – as well as the vast resorts of Vale do Lobo and Quinta do Lago – are special places to stay, eat and drink. Every visitor will have their favourite spot, whether it be a bar in Vilamoura’s glitzy marina, fine dining in swish Quinta do Lago or a beachside restaurant in Vale do Lobo.
These holiday favourites are not difficult to find in the high-octane central Algarve. The same is true of the courses; everyone will have favourites that they swear by. Some understandably can’t see past Vilamoura’s Oceânico Old, its relatively narrow fairways lined by avenues of pines and its small greens leaving an indelible mark in their golfing memories. The Old is the star of the Oceânico stable that also includes Victoria, host of the World Cup in 2005 and of the annual Portuguese Masters. In addition, Oceânico also have Pinhal, Millennium and Laguna in their stable and you can be assured of well-conditioned courses with impeccable service at all. The standard of course is maintained impressively, and you may well find your little piece of golfing heaven at one of these lesser-known courses.
Pestana Vila Sol is home to three notably classy loops of nine with a delightful clubhouse that beckons you for post-round refreshment. There are just nine holes on offer at Pine Cliffs – but what a nine. Including the iconic shots from the edge of the bright orange cliffs, Pine Cliffs is a must play – and if there is a more comprehensive resort in Europe, we will be amazed. Whatever you want to do on your holiday, Pine Cliffs can provide it. Vale do Lobo benefits from its location on the edge of the beach and both its courses – the Royal and the Ocean – incorporate holes of breathtaking quality. The latter is often playing either towards, from or alongside the sand and is one of the Algarve’s special experiences.
The same can certainly be said of San Lorenzo, one of the continent’s most spectacular courses. The stretch from the 5th to the 8th, with views over the Ria Formosa wetlands and out to sea, is one of the prettiest in Europe. With an exciting collection of holes to finish, it is hardly surprising it is rated as the No.2 course in the Algarve. San Lorenzo sits within the Quinta do Lago estate and it has three of its own courses. The traditional No.1 has been the South, a quality parkland routed among mature trees and bushes, it has hosted eight Portuguese Opens and remains one of the most treasured venues in the Algarve.
However it has a new rival in the revamped North, given an extensive and successful makeover by architect Beau Welling and former Ryder Cup captain Paul McGinley. Now extremely playable, it is aesthetically pleasing to the eye by virtue of white sand bunkers, green velvet fairways lined by bark, and flanked by mature trees. It entered Golf World’s benchmark Top 100 alongside the South last year and the final course of the trio, Laranjal, was close to doing so too. It is located a few minutes drive from the bustling hub of QdL – which is full of enticing restaurants, bars and shops – but is an interesting layout of lakes and strong bunkering that would be worthy of a Top 100 slot.
Eastern Algarve
The East may have a lower profile but it has star quality and offers a tranquil, great-value break.
The East might be the perennial underdog in the Algarve but for a certain type of golf break, it should be the top choice, offering a more sedate pace of life. That’s not to say it is boring off the course or on it, because in Monte Gordo and Tavira it has towns that are certainly lively enough and in Monte Rei it has one of Europe’s top 15 courses.
But away from these high points are plenty of lower profi le but excellent courses – as well as charming villages offering marvellous food and atmosphere. Monte Rei defines the East by virtue of its outstanding Jack Nicklaus course, an intoxicating mixture of cleverly designed golf holes set in beautiful rolling landscapes. It oozes quality, from the level of service to the practice facilities to the Michelin-star food in the chic clubhouse.
Testament to its quality is the fact that this premium venue opened just before the big crash yet has prospered year on year. Drive down from Monte Rei in the hills of the Serra do Caldeirão mountains towards the Atlantic and you come to one of Continental Europe’s most underrated resorts – albeit the golf and the hotel are owned by separate companies. Quinta da Ria has two different but contrasting courses, the Cima and the Ria. The former is an excellent technical examination among mature trees and around water, with a high-octane climax to a particularly underrated course. The latter, meanwhile, offers a splendid beachside stretch as its highlight, with holes laid out along the coast that are of a truly spectacular nature and are arguably some of the continent’s most exciting.
There are other options in the East too: the Seve Ballesteros designed Vale right on the edge of the Guardiana river, where dog-legs can catch out the unwary. There are three loops of nine at Castro Marim, with the youngest, The Grouse, arguably now the pick of them.
Finally, Benamor on the outskirts of the ancient city of Tavira is a delightful test with a notable lack of residential development. It is the last course designed by Sir Henry Cotton, 34 years on from when he began travelling golfers’ enduring love affair with the Algarve.